In the afternoon N again informed us that Castle Coole was “about a mile away”.  Again I was foolish enough to take him at his word.  Again I wore the same uncomfortable shoes.  Again it was at least two miles to the park entrance and then another substantial walk to the Castle, which wasn’t a real castle, but a neo-classical stately home.

Unfortunately you weren’t supposed to take pictures in the house and as they were watching me – I couldn’t.  Not sure I see the rationale for banning (non-flash) photography…  I’d highly recommend the tea shop – the lemon meringue pie was something else (but I can feel myself putting on weight by the moment).

Back at the moorings we have now acquired a smart card so we have mains power and can recharge everything without needing to put the engines on.  Amazing the feeling of dissipated luxury this gives us….

The pottery tour was interesting – particularly watching the traditional craftsmanship going into making the traditional baskets and flowers.  Some of the old photos were illuminating – in 1890s all the people in the workshop were men, but now at least 80% of the people doing the fine work were women.  I bought a nice vase for me and some dinner plates for N’s birthday – now all I have to do is find a place for the vase where the cats can’t get it.

We had just a bit of bother getting the boat turned round to leave the mooring.  It took several attempts and we may just have bumped it a few times – partially because it was a tight turn, partially because of the poor visibility, and partially due to over-enthusiasm by the Captain.

By the time we arrived at Devenish Island (Gaelic – Island of the Ox), the weather had improved a lot and we had a walk to see the remains of the monastery founded by St Molaise.  I was disappointed not to be able to climb the tower as it was locked – doubtless another stupid health and safety regulation.

Then we headed back to Enniskillen – we’d hoped to eat at Cafe Merlot but we got a bit carried away playing D&D and left it too late.  So we had dinner at the Linen Room which looked nice and had cheap drinks but rather indifferent food (tinned peas and about six chips with my steak).

The ferry crossing was quite fun although I would not recommend the coffee – someone should tell Stena that ‘Barista’ does not involve pushing a button on a machine.  The views over to Belfast were nice.

We arrived in Enniskillen later in the day and went for a pooter about.  Everything was lovely and peaceful, and it was quite unlike what the name unfortunately still conjures up for people of my generation.  Hopefully in time the memories of the troubles will all fade.

The town is on an island and has a nice castle which we will be seeing later in the week.  Also a good fountain.

We saw the sister boat to the one we would be picking up the next day – the “Noble Commander”

Then we had a decent dinner in the Enniskillen hotel, though I am not sure what the poet Oscar would have made of his name being associated with a “Wilde Burger”.